In the 1990s Jirair Avanian’s reputation was near mythical in Yerevan. Whatever business appeared that broke the Soviet mould in the glacial-speed development of Armenia as a free market, was immediately thought to belong to the repatriate with Western ideas.
For more than a decade, though, his own name has become an appendage to the landmark restaurant he opened in 1998. The bubbly businessman is more likely, now, to be referred to as “Dolmama Jirair”.
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